Stage 3: Palas de Rei → Arzúa
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Day's Summary: The Queen Stage
Prepare yourself mentally, because today you face the longest stage of the entire Camino Francés from Sarria. It's almost 30 kilometers that will test your legs and, above all, your mind. The route will take you through a continuous rollercoaster of hills, crossing forests, small rivers, and villages until you reach two key points: Melide, the mecca of octopus, and Arzúa, the land of cheese. It's one of those days that, when you finish it, you feel invincible.
Points of Interest (and the most important stop)
You know how we roll: we tell you what, but not what it looks like, so you can be amazed on your own. Today the Camino offers you medieval bridges and fairytale forests, but let's be honest, everyone is moving forward thinking about one thing only...
- Furelos Bridge: Just before Melide, you'll come across this medieval gem with four arches. It's one of those must-take photos.
- Melide and its Octopus!: This is the point of interest in capital letters. Here the Camino Primitivo crosses the Camino Francés and tradition dictates a stop to eat "pulpo á feira" (fair-style octopus). It's not a suggestion, it's a moral obligation. The octopus restaurants are famous throughout Galicia.
- Ribadiso da Baixo Bridge: Another beautiful medieval bridge, this time at the entrance to Arzúa. Next to it is a public albergue in an old pilgrim hospital that is a marvel.
- Eucalyptus Forests: In the final part of the stage, you will immerse yourself in eucalyptus forests. The smell is incredible and the shade is much appreciated... if there are any left! Because so much of the forest in Galicia has burned in recent years that you no longer know if you will find shade or a dry patch, haha!
- Arzúa, Capital of Cheese: Your final destination. A large town, with all services and famous for its creamy D.O. Arzúa-Ulloa cheese.
Survival Tips for the Marathon
The Most Important Tip: Octopus is Your Fuel
It's no joke. The stop in Melide (more or less halfway through the stage) is strategic. A good plate of octopus with "cachelos" (boiled potatoes) and a little bread gives you brutal energy to face the remaining 15 km to Arzúa. Don't overdo it with the wine, though, as the hills will get steeper. Trust us, it's the best refueling you're going to find.
Other Tips for Surviving D-Day:
- Get up earlier than ever: Today is not a day to sleep in. Leaving at first light will give you a vital time margin to not be rushed.
- Take care of your feet as if they were gold: This is the stage where the most blisters appear. Stop as soon as you feel any discomfort. A timely Compeed is a victory.
- Arzúa cheese, the final reward: When you arrive, find a bakery and buy a piece of Arzúa cheese. Sitting in the square eating it while watching other pilgrims arrive is one of the best moments of the Camino.
- Plan B (and Plan C): If you see that Melide has knocked you out, don't risk it. It has a lot of albergues and pensions (Plan B). It's better to split the stage than to get injured. And if things get really ugly, you're getting closer to Santiago... call us! You know my husband is a taxi driver and for a small fee he will save you the suffering, haha! (Plan C).