Stage 2: Portomarín → Palas de Rei
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Day's Summary: Time to go up and down!
If yesterday was the baptism, today is the confirmation. The stage from Portomarín to Palas de Rei is longer and more demanding than the first. You will face the famous Sierra de Ligonde, a constant up-and-down that pilgrims affectionately call the "leg-breaker." The day begins with a steep climb to leave the Miño River behind and then enters a landscape of asphalt, dirt tracks, and tiny villages. It's not the most beautiful stage in terms of trails, but it has a special charm, that of overcoming and feeling that you are truly in the heart of rural Galicia.
Points of Interest (and a little more honesty)
Here comes today's confession. We would love to fill this with spectacular photos of each place, but we have two problems. The first: it's been so long since we last passed through that our photos would have been taken with an old Nokia. The second and more important: if we get caught using photos from the internet, we might get our business shut down for copyright infringement. And honestly, is there anything better than discovering it with your own eyes? Of course not! So take note:
- Castro de Castromaior: Shortly after Gonzar, you will see the ruins of an Iron Age settlement. It's right next to the Camino, so you have no excuse not to take a look.
- Sierra de Ligonde: The "wall" of the day. It's not a point, it's THE point. The climb is tough, but the views from the top are worth it. We always think it would be a great place to open a Señarís sandwich branch in the summer. We'd make a killing!
- Ventas de Narón: A town that is pure Camino history, a traditional resting place for pilgrims for centuries.
- The DNA of Galicia: Notice the "hórreos" (the elevated stone and wood granaries) and the "cruceiros" (the stone crosses). They are everywhere and are the essence of this land.
- Palas de Rei: Your well-deserved rest! A town with a lot of pilgrim life, ideal for recharging, having a beer, and sharing stories.
Survival Tips for the 'Leg-Breaker' Stage
The Most Important Tip: The Intermediate "Plan B"
Today the "Plan B" is different. As the stage is long, you may not make it to Palas de Rei or, again, it may be full. The villages of **Gonzar** (km 8) and **Ventas de Narón** (km 11) are your lifelines. Both have private albergues that, although small, are a blessing if your strength fails. Don't hesitate to stop if you need to. Listen to your body, not the urge to arrive.
Other Tips to Get Through the Day:
- Water and Snacks, your best friends: Today more than ever. The climbs will make you sweat. Bring plenty of water and some fruit or nuts for energy slumps.
- Asphalt, that silent enemy: There are quite a few road sections. Be careful with your feet, asphalt is harder on the joints. If you can, walk on the dirt shoulder.
- Ulloa Cheese: Palas de Rei is the cradle of the Arzúa-Ulloa Designation of Origin cheese. Treat yourself when you arrive. It is creamy and delicious, perfect for recharging. And hey, if you feel strong enough to carry one in your backpack to Santiago, we'll trade you for one of our burgers here at the bar! (Just kidding... or are we?).
- Ask for the "Pilgrim's Menu": In Palas de Rei, almost all restaurants offer it. It is the best way to eat well, abundantly, and at a good price. You've earned it!